How Much House Can You Afford? Set Your Own Limit
By The Bureau of Wealth Team 1181 words
This article is general information, not financial advice. Consider your own circumstances or speak to a qualified adviser before acting on it.
A lender tells you the most it will lend. This guide shows you how to work out the payment you can actually carry, and why the two numbers are often far apart.
You can afford the house whose full monthly payment (principal, interest, property tax, insurance and any PMI) fits your budget after you've kept saving for emergencies and retirement. That number is usually lower than the loan a lender will approve. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau puts it bluntly: focus on a mortgage that is affordable for you, not how much you qualify for. This guide is for first-time buyers who have a pre-approval figure, or are about to get one, and want a limit of their own before they start viewing homes.
Why the approval number is a ceiling, not a budget
A lender's job is to decide whether you are likely to repay. It looks at your gross income and your debts. The CFPB notes that lenders do not take into account all your family and financial circumstances. Your lender doesn't see what you spend on child care, how much you put into a 401(k), or that your car is ten years old and due for replacement.
The CFPB's debt-to-income worksheet suggests keeping all debts, mortgage included, at 36% of pre-tax income or less, and adds that some lenders will go up to 43% or higher. Its monthly payment worksheet calls 28% of pre-tax income for total housing costs a rule of thumb, not a rule. Those are guidelines. Different loan products and lenders set their own limits.
Here's what the gap looks like. Take a single buyer earning $90,000 a year, with $450 a month of other debt payments, $35,000 saved for a down payment, a 30-year fixed rate of 6.5%, property tax of 1.1% a year (the national median the CFPB worksheet uses), $1,800 a year for homeowners insurance and PMI assumed at 0.5% of the loan a year. We ran those inputs through our home affordability calculator:
| Limit you apply | Monthly housing payment | Home price it supports |
|---|---|---|
| 22% of gross income for housing | $1,650 | $226,784 |
| 28% housing, 36% total debt (CFPB guidelines) | $2,100 | $285,577 |
| 43% total debt (a lender that stretches) | $2,775 | $373,766 |
The stretched approval buys a home about $88,000 more expensive. It also costs $675 more every month, for as long as you own it.
Count the whole payment: PITI plus PMI
The CFPB describes principal, interest, taxes and insurance, known as PITI, as the four basic elements of a monthly mortgage payment. Many first-time buyers budget for the first two and get surprised by the rest. In the 28% example above, principal and interest are $1,584. Property tax adds $262, insurance $150 and PMI $104.
PMI is the piece people underestimate. According to the CFPB, you might be required to buy private mortgage insurance on a conventional loan with a down payment below 20%, and it protects the lender, not you. It doesn't last forever: the CFPB explains that you can ask your servicer to cancel it once your balance is scheduled to reach 80% of the home's original value, and that it generally ends automatically at 78%. With a small down payment, that can take years of payments.
Then there's the cost that never appears on a Loan Estimate. The CFPB's worksheet gives a common rule of thumb of 1% of the home price a year for maintenance. On a $285,577 home that's roughly $240 a month you should set aside, on top of PITI. HOA dues, if any, come on top as well.
The number that surprises most buyers
The 28% guideline is measured against pre-tax income. You pay your mortgage from take-home pay. Our take-home pay calculator puts the same $90,000 earner at $65,215 a year after 2026 federal tax, payroll taxes, a 4% state income tax and a 5% 401(k) contribution. Against that, the "safe" $2,100 payment is about 39% of what actually lands in the bank account. The 43% approval is about 51%.
Existing debt moves the answer more than you might expect. Raise that buyer's other monthly debt payments from $450 to $1,200 (a car loan and student loans, say) and the calculator's price falls from $285,577 to $207,186, because the 36% total-debt limit now binds before the 28% housing limit. Paying off a car before you buy can be worth more house than a year of extra saving. Check where you stand with the debt-to-income ratio calculator, and see how fast a balance can go with the loan repayment calculator.
Rates matter too. At 7.5% instead of 6.5%, the same $2,100 payment supports a $265,367 home instead of $285,577.
How to set your own limit
We'd start from your budget, not from the lender's ratio. Work through these in order:
- Start with take-home pay. Subtract your current spending except rent, then subtract what you intend to keep saving each month for emergencies and retirement. What remains is the most you could put toward housing.
- Take out the costs that aren't PITI. Set aside maintenance (the 1% rule of thumb is a starting point), HOA dues and higher utilities if the home is bigger than your apartment.
- Turn the rest into a price. Enter that monthly figure as your housing ratio in the home affordability calculator, with a real property tax rate for your county and an insurance quote, not a national average.
- Test the payment for real. For three to six months, move the difference between your rent and the new payment into savings. If that hurts, the price is too high, and you've added to your down payment anyway.
When a bigger payment is reasonable, and when to go lower
The 28% guideline is a blunt tool, and it cuts both ways. Going somewhat above it can be a reasonable choice if you have no other debt, a full emergency fund after closing, secure income and retirement saving that's already on track. In that case the ratio overstates your risk, because nothing else is competing for the money.
Go well below it if any of these apply: your income is commission, freelance or seasonal; you're taking an adjustable-rate mortgage, where the CFPB warns that your payment could change; you expect child care costs or a drop to one income; or closing would empty your savings. For those buyers even 28% of gross can be too much. For a decision this size, a HUD-certified housing counselor or a fee-only financial planner can review your numbers.
Next 10 minutes: run your income, debts and down payment through the calculator at 28% and 36%. Today: rebuild the result from take-home pay, including maintenance. This week: ask your county for its property tax rate, get an insurance quote, and start paying yourself the new payment.
Sources
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: How can I figure out if I can afford to buy a home and take out a mortgage?
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: Debt-to-income calculator (Your Money, Your Goals)
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: Buying a house: monthly payment worksheet
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: When can I remove private mortgage insurance (PMI) from my loan?